Food

January: Food of the Month: Soups That Really Satisfy

ldilembo — Fri, 02 Jan 2009 07:24:00 GMT

Turkish Lentil Soup

Happy New Year to all!

A steaming hot bowl of homemade soup satisfies all the senses at once, the wafts of vapour steaming our faces, our hands warmed, curling around the bowl, inhaling sensuous aromas with each breath. The thickened stew of vegetables, beans and grains suspended magically in the broth are a special form of alchemy, turning what was water and random chopped things into a liquid meal of tender, floating morsels infused with aromatics and herbs.

I never loved soup more than when I travelled through Turkey a couple of years ago. Learning the word "chorba" (soup) was tantamount to knowing a special password that brought me to tiny restaurants with pantry-sized kitchens where I was served bowls of fragrant, wholesome lentil soup, a national speciality. Where there is chorba there are kebabs and with kebabs come fresh flatbreads and "meze" salads, braised broad beans, stewed eggplant, stuffed grape vine leaves, roasted peppers and then sticky, nut-laden sweet pastries with hot tea. Using the humblest of ingredients, a Turkish lentil soup is easy to prepare, taking about 50 minutes to simmer into thick, satisfying smoothness.

Turkish Lentil Soup

1 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil; 1/2 cup chopped onion; 1 celery stalk, diced; 1 large carrot, diced; 1 large parsnip, diced; 1 tbsp. fresh minced garlic; 1 tsp. cumin; 1 bay leaf; 1+1/4 cup red lentils; 6+1/2 cups water; 1 tsp. granulated sugar; 1 tsp. salt; freshly ground pepper to taste; 4 parsley and 4 cilantro sprigs, tied together with kitchen twine; juice of 1/2 lemon.

Saute the vegetables in the olive oil in a medium sized pot for 5 minutes, until softened. Add garlic and cumin and cook, stirring, just until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add lentils, bay leaf, water, spices and herbs. Boil, then simmer, covered, until everything is soft and soupy, about 50 minutes. Remove herbs and bay leaf. Add lemon juice. Puree with an immersion blender or (carefully) in a regular blender. Taste and add salt and pepper if needed. Serves 4-6.

Turkish Stuffed Grape Vine Leaves

The only mindful planning required for Tuscan Bean and Farro Soup is to presoak 2 cups of dried white cannellini beans overnight. The rest is child's play. If you do not already know about farro, you are in for a treat. It is an ancient grain, sometimes called spelt, with a toothsome, barley-like texture, that is grown and widely used in the Garfagnana region of Italy, in the mountains north of the Tuscan town of Lucca. Farro, or spelt, can be found at Italian supermarkets and whole foods grocery stores. Using the triumvirate of flavour-builders, onion, celery and carrots, this soup is a vegetarian melange of substance, the starch from the beans and farro thickening the broth which is sporadically speckled with flecks of golden onion and bright carrot. This is a soup you will want to give your children, your mother and everyone in between, so full of homemade goodness and nutrients it is. The recipe is my version of one from Alice Waters, master of creating deliciousness out of simple, humble foods.

Lucca and surrounding mountains

Tuscan Bean and Farro Soup

2 cups dried cannellini or other small white beans; 1 medium-sized onion, diced; 1 leek, white part only, cleaned and sliced thinly; 3 large cloves of garlic, minced; 1 stalk celery, diced; 1 large carrot, diced; 1 large parsnip, diced; 2 medium tomatoes, diced; 2 tbsp. olive oil; 1 sprig fresh thyme or large pinch of dried thyme; 6 sage leaves, chopped, or pinch of dried sage; 2 bay leaves; 1 pinch hot red pepper flakes; 7 cups water (or stock); salt and pepper to taste (use less salt if broth is salted); 1 cup farro.

Soak the beans overnight. The next day saute the onion, leek, celery, carrot and parsnip in the olive oil in a large pot until the onions turn golden brown and the vegetables are softened. Drain the beans and add them to the pot with the water, tomatoes, herbs, bay leaves, garlic and red pepper flakes. Do not add salt yet as it will toughen the beans. Bring the soup to a boil and lower the heat to a slow simmer. Partially cover the soup and cook for about 1+1/4 hours, stirring occasionally. Add about 2 tsp. salt and pepper to taste after about 1 hour. While the soup simmers, put the farro in a small pot with 2 cups of salted boiling water and cook until the farro is tender, about 45 minutes. Drain. When the soup beans are tender, add the cooked farro and stir well. Simmer for another 10 minutes. Adjust seasoning if needed and thin soup with a little water or broth if it seems too thick. Serves 8.

Serve up some soup from these library books:

Soups & stews : [classic recipes, simple instructions, expert advice] / by Simmons, Marie.

The complete book of soups and stews / by Clayton, Bernard.

Vegetable soups from Deborah Madison's kitchen / by Madison, Deborah.

Food Vlogs and Other Videos

ldilembo — Fri, 26 Dec 2008 08:52:00 GMT

Do you know what a vlog is?

vlog

Webster's New Millennium™ Dictionary of English

Main Entry:	vlog
Part of Speech:	n
Definition:	a video blog; a blog that is mainly video content
Etymology:	2002; video + weblog
Usage:	also vlogging, (n.), vlogger, (n.)

This, being Holiday time, is a good time to kick back and be entertained. So, I did a bit of vlogging and found a whole cyber world of food videos, with chefs showing their pro-style stuff in sleek, swanky kitchens and grandmothers in modest little cottage kitchens demonstrating their own homestyle cooking traditions, all quite fascinating, really. I used a vlog review from the Los Angeles Times as my guide, following the reviewer's footsteps to the most useful food vlogs out there. Here are the highlights from my foray into food vlogs and online food videos. Remember that anyone can post almost anything on a vlog, so the quality of the content can vary enormously.

http://ifoods.tv/web/index.jsp British videos of food prep submitted by viewers.

http://tastyfood.tv/ The website says: "Share with the world that secret recipe your grandma showed you! Good food should be shared! Spread the word and enjoy the videos from other members."

Rouxbe Ad-free cooking videos.

Foodtube Videos of recipe demos, with lots of ethnic foods featured.

http://www.foodnetwork.com/video-library/index.html Celebrity chefs can be entertaining in small doses. Full episodes of some cooking shows are also featured here.

http://videos.canadianliving.com/ Great segments in Food Basics, such as How to Steel a Knife, How to Pit an Avocado, plus sections titled Quick and Easy, Entertaining, and Baking and Desserts.

http://video.epicurious.com/ World foods are featured in Around the World in 80 Dishes. Videos also available on Techniques, Cocktails, Holidays, Entertaining, Wine Guide, etc.

http://www.cooksillustrated.com/video/ Membership required. Free 14-day trial.

http://www.taunton.com/finecooking/videos/ Videos divided into these subjects: Essential Techniques, Breads and Doughs, Cakes, Pies and Pastries, Desserts and Candy, Knife Skills, Meat and Poultry, Wine, Equipment Demos, Author Interviews. Some are free and some are not.

http://video.nytimes.com/video/2008/10/12/dining/cooking/1194823595600/freestyle-cooking-with-ferr-n-adri-.html?scp=2&sq=cooking%20videos&st=cse The ever fabulous website for the New York Times has an extensive video library that includes segments on Dining and Wine. Always a good bet for viewing pleasure.

http://www.goodhousekeeping.com/video/?maven_playlistId=0e5d906b9fd16a9024143622c3a4d03775a6dbaf&maven_referrer=mrss&maven_referralPlaylistId=0e5d906b9fd16a9024143622c3a4d03775a6dbaf

250 video clips available on Recipes and Entertaining, including Homemade Food Gifts, The Best Mail-Order Foods, Ready-Made Meals for the Holidays, Soups and Stews, and much more.

Calgary Public Library has some Cooking DVDs you may enjoy:

Jacques Pepin's Fast Food My Way

30 minute meals with Rachael Ray [videorecording (DVD)] : a little spice is nice.

30 minute meals with Rachael Ray [videorecording (DVD)] : fast and light.

The complete guide to cake decorating & baking [videorecording (DVD)].

Decadent desserts [videorecording (DVD)] : chocolate, honey and sugar.

Now, go forth and vlog.

Two Essential Ingredients For Great Baking

ldilembo — Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:41:00 GMT

Brownie Cheese Pie With Raspberry Topping

Cooking and baking are the yin and yang of kitchen arts, cooking requiring more judgement, more intuition, as well as allowing for more creativity and experimentation. Baking, conversely, is a more rigid science that relies on precision in measurement and in following directions exactly. It can take years for someone to feel comfortable cooking, gaining the experience necessary to make all the little decisions required for successful results, using your senses and incorporating details that are not always written in recipes. But, to bake successfully, only two ingredients are required: 1) The willingness to bake and 2) a great recipe. Most people don't have either.

I have both the willingness and the recipes. Where does the willingness come from? Mostly, from utter, shameless selfishness. I want to eat well. I don't want to settle for commercial anything. I want all my food to be homemade, pure and delicious, even the decadent desserts I sometimes indulge in.

As for great recipes, let me be your guide. So cherished is my recipe collection that I would grab it (along with my husband and children!) if my house was burning down. I have invested hundreds if not thousands of hours of my adult life pouring over cookbooks and magazines in search of great food and have test driven enough recipes to distill the really great ones. And I offer them to you.

The Brownie Cheese Pie recipe, pictured above, is a multi-layered creation of ample flavour, colour and texture. It is currently my signature dessert, the one I rely on when I have friends over or need to bring something sweet to a party. Each of its parts sing out brightly, yet the whole is even greater than the sum of its pretty parts. With a simple crumb crust, this dessert comes together more quickly than you would guess and is SO, SO worth it.

Brownie Cheese Pie With Raspberry Topping

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

Crust: 1+1/2 cups graham cracker crumbs; 6 tbsp. melted unsalted butter; 3 tbsp. brown sugar.

Brownie Layer: 1/3 cup unsalted butter, softened; 1/3 cup granulated sugar; 2 large eggs; 1+1/4 tsp. pure vanilla extract; 1 cup semi-sweet chocolate, melted and cooled; 1/3 cup all-purpose flour.

Cream Cheese Layer: 1 8-ounce package cream cheese, at room temperature; scant 1/2 cup granulated sugar; 1 large egg at room temperature; 1 tbsp. all-purpose flour; 2 tbsp. sour cream; 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract.

Raspberry Topping: 1/4 cup granulated sugar; 1+1/2tbsp. cornstarch (2 tbsp. if using frozen raspberries, as they release more water); 1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice; 2 cups fresh or frozen raspberries; 1/3 cup cold water; pinch of salt.

Crust: In a bowl, combine everything. Press evenly into bottom and onto sides of a buttered 9-inch pie plate. Chill in fridge while preparing other layers.

Brownie Layer: In a large mixing bowl, beat butter and sugar on medium-high speed for 3 minutes. Add eggs, one at a time, and beat well after each addition. Mix in vanilla, salt and cooled, melted chocolate, blending everything very well until smooth. Add flour and mix just until incorporated. Pour into bottom of pie plate. Refrigerate while you proceed.

Cream Cheese Layer: In a clean mixing bowl beat cream cheese and sugar on medium-high for 3 minutes. Add egg and mix well until blended. Mix in sour cream and vanilla and blend well. Mix in flour just until incorporated. Pour evenly on top of brownie layer.

Bake pie at 350 degrees F for 35 - 40 minutes or until the cream cheese layer is puffed, set and just starting to turn golden at the edges. Cool pie for 1 hour.

Raspberry Topping: In a saucepan, combine sugar, cornstarch, pinch of salt, water, lemon juice and raspberries. Bring to a simmer, stirring gently, and let simmer for 3 minutes, until clear and thickened. Cool for 15 minutes and spread evenly over pie. Refrigerate for 3 hours or overnight to set all the layers.

Are you a great baker now?

More excellent recipes can be found here:

Essentials of baking : recipes and techniques for successful home baking / by Burgett, Cathy.

The America's test kitchen: family baking book , featuring more than 700 kitchen-tested recipes, 800 step-by-step photos, opinionated product ratings, and at-a-glance tutorials that guarantee success every time you bake /

A passion for baking : [bake to celebrate, bake to nourish, bake for fun] / by Goldman, Marcy.

Make This Now - Chicken Provencal

ldilembo — Fri, 12 Dec 2008 08:28:00 GMT

What I want right now is a full-bodied, oven-hot, saucy dish loaded with garlic to mop up with a crusty baguette, a dish with the acidic perkiness of wine nestled within the layers of flavour. I want sunshine-filled food, tomatoes (OK - canned), olives, lemon zest and fresh parsley. This is a form of escape to a hotter clime I can manage immediately, tonight even. This is what I am making for dinner right now:

Chicken Provencal - Braised Chicken With Tomatoes, Garlic and Olives

8 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (about 3 pounds), trimmed of excess skin and fat; salt; 1 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil; 1 small onion, chopped (about 2/3 cup); 6 medium garlic cloves, minced; 1 anchovy filet, minced (or 1/8 tsp. fish sauce); 1/8 tsp. cayenne; 1 cup dry white wine; 1 cup chicken broth; 1 14.5-ounce can diced tomatoes, drained; 2+1/2 tbsp. tomato paste; 1+1/2 tbsp. chopped fresh thyme leaves; 1 tsp. chopped fresh oregano leaves; 1 bay leaf; grated zest of 1 lemon; 1/2 cup mild-tasting olives (Nicoise are best); 2 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley leaves.

Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position; heat oven to 300 degrees F. Sprinkle both sides of chicken with salt and pepper. Heat oil in large pot and cook chicken, 4 thighs at a time, skin-side down until skin is crisp and browned, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer chicken thighs to a large plate. Add onion to fat in pan and cook, stirring occasionally, over medium heat until browned, about 4 minutes. Add garlic, anchovy and cayenne and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add wine and scrape up browned bits from pan bottom with wooden spoon. Stir in chicken broth, tomatoes, tomato paste, thyme, oregano and bay leaf. Remove and discard skin from chicken thighs, then submerge chicken in liquid and add accumulated juices from the plate to the pot. Increase heat to high, bring to a simmer, cover, then set pot in oven. Bake until chicken offers no resistance when poked with the tip of a knife, about 1+1/4 hours.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer chicken to serving platter and tent with foil. Discard bay leaf. Set pot over high heat and stir in half of the lemon zest. Bring to a boil and cook, stirring occassionally, until sauce is slightly thickened and reduced to about 2 cups, about 5 minutes. Stir in olives and cook until heated through, about 1 minute. Mix remaining zest with parsley. Spoon sauce over chicken, sprinkle parsley mixture over chicken and serve. Serves 4.

This recipe is adapted from the October 2003 issue of Cook's Illustrated magazine.

I will serve Chicken Provencal with crusty bread, boiled, buttered potatoes and a salad of mixed greens doused with walnut oil, red wine vinegar, sea salt and fresh cracked pepper. Et, voila: a meal to warm our hearts, souls and imaginations.

Stay warm with these titles:

The complete book of hot & spicy Asian cooking. by Liley, Vicki.

Some like it hot : spicy favorites from the world's hot zones / by Wright, Clifford A.

The El Paso Chile Company's burning desires : salsa, smoke, and sizzle from down by the Rio Grande / by Kerr, W. Park.

Homemade Foodie Gifts

ldilembo — Fri, 05 Dec 2008 08:48:00 GMT

Toasted Pecan Toffee, Peppermint and Pecan Chocolate Bark, Caramel Corn Clusters, Cranberry Jewel Fudge. Need I say more? You have places to go and gifts to give and these homemade goodies are so right for right now. You may not have considered such creations any other time of year, but somehow, they speak of the season, of thoughtful gifts from your kitchen, of sweetness and indulgence that set the right mood for the holidays. Carry on.

Cranberry Jewel Fudge,from www.canadianliving.com is a gift that will please anyone lucky enough to receive it. Use really good quality chocolate, such as Bernard Callebaut or Lindt, for the best results:

12 ounces bittersweet chocolate,chopped; 1 300-ml can of sweetened condensed milk; 2 tsp. pure vanilla extract; Cranberry Topping: 5 ounces white chocolate, chopped; 3/4 cup chopped dried cranberries.

Line an 8" square cake pan with parchment paper or foil, leaving 1 inch overhang for easy removal. In a bowl set over a saucepan of hot, not boiling, water, melt bittersweet chocolate with condensed milk, stirring, until smooth, about 5 minutes. Off the heat, stir in vanilla. Pour into prepared pan, spreading evenly. Refrigerate until firm, about 1 hour. In a bowl set over a saucepan of hot water melt white chocolate. Spread over bittersweet chocolate layer. Sprinkle with cranberries immediately and press lightly so that cranberries stick to chocolate. Refrigerate until firm, about 3 hours. Remove fudge from pan and peel away paper. With hot, dry knife, cut into little squares.

Having mastered fudge, even if it's a simple version (versus the kind you boil and measure with a candy thermometer), you can justifiably feel like a Master Candy Maker and overall Righteous Citizen. Perhaps now you would like to tango with Toffee? This recipe does require a candy thermometer. It is not scary and very worth it, says I, the most un-technical of bakers. This is the kind of stunning old-fashioned sweet you see sold in upscale chocolate and gourmet shops.

Toasted Pecan Toffee (from www.101cookbooks.com)

1 cup butter; 1+1/2 cups granulated sugar; 3 tbps. corn syrup; 3 tbsp. water; 2 cups well-chopped pecans, toasted (divided); 1/2 pound chocolate of your choice (I like using extra bittersweet chocolate to play off the sweetness of the toffee).

Cover a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside. In a medium saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Stir in the sugar, corn syrup and water. Cook, stirring gently, until the mixture is bubbling and the candy thermometer registers 300 degrees F. Remove from heat and stir in one cup of the pecans. Quickly and carefully pour hot toffee mixture onto prepared pan, tilting the pan to spread the toffee out evenly and thinly, approximately into a 12-inch circle. Melt the chocolate in a bowl set over a saucepan of hot water. Once toffee has set, spread half the melted chocolate over it, using a long, thin spreading knife or spatula to cover the chocolate evenly. Immediately sprinkle with 1/2 cup of the pecans, pressing them gently so that they adhere to the chocolate. Wait about 45 minutes to let the chocolate firm up and carefully flip the toffee over. If the remaining melted chocolate has firmed up, remelt it and spread it over the second side of the tofffee. Sprinkle 1/2 cup of the pecans over the melted chocolate. Let cool completely. To break the toffee into pieces I use the tip of a chef's knife to poke into the toffee and create cracks more or less where I want them.

Chocolate and peppermint conjoined in a slab of dark bark, studded with chopped nuts, is my next offering to you, a creative and delicious use for candy canes, from www.epicurious.com: Peppermint and Pecan Chocolate Bark.

Try your hand at Caramel Corn Clusters .

Who would turn down Rainforest Brittle ?

Roll up your sleeves and have some fun in the kitchen this season.

For more inspirational foodie gift ideas, these books will delight you:

All-time favorite gifts from the kitchen : [over 200 tried-and-true recipes /

Christmas gifts of good taste : over 200 recipes & crafts /

Gifts from the kitchen / by Paré, Jean. 1927-

December - Food of the Month - Chocolate

ldilembo — Mon, 01 Dec 2008 08:59:00 GMT

Admit it; you will be eating some quantities of chocolate this month. And it won't always be worth it. My goal, as a community service, is to ensure that at least some of your chocolate consumption is memorable and magnificent. I cannot be responsible for it all.

I have walked many paths in my search for excellent jolts of molten deliciousness a.k.a. chocolate. I have sunk as low as Pot of Gold. I regretted this shortly after my first bite, despairing over the chemical aftertastes of the artificial flavours and the waxy mouth feel of the couverture. Alternately, I have left my taste buds dancing high on the mountain peaks of Valrhona's Noir Gastronomie bars, savouring the delicacy and finesse of the coffee and spice undertones present in each smooth morsel. In between there have been hikes on the highways of Toblerone, Crunchy, Mars, Cherry Blossoms, Laura Secord, Lindt, Maple Buds, Hershey Kisses, O Henry, Coffee Crisp, Reese's Peanut Butter Cups, Aero, and on and on, a veritable lifetime's worth of discovery and mostly disappointment. Perhaps you have been on a similar journey. Let us now commiserate and go where we should have gone all along, to the divinely pure and delicious dark side of chocolate's many varieties.

"Dark" chocolate, bittersweet or semi-sweet, encapsulates for me the essence of what is most wonderful about chocolate. Not that a good quality milk chocolate studded with toasted hazelnuts has anything wrong with it. But, when I am looking for a deep, intense mouthful of chocolate flavour in all its complexity, it is bittersweet chocolate that most seduces me.

How do you get your hands on some great chocolate and what should you do with it, short of simply eating it out of hand? Try some of the acclaimed brands, such as Scharffen Berger, Valrhona, Guittard, Ghirardelli, Lindt. I am currently smitten with the large 300 mg bars of imported chocolate from France sold at The Real Canadian Superstore under the President's Choice label. A relatively new addition to this collection is the Extra Dark Chocolate bar, which really is as good as any of the other better labels I have tried, with a deep, honest taste and beautiful texture. At $3.49 for this large bar, it offers great value and quality.

The surest and most direct way to experience a pure chocolate hit is to make truffles. With only a couple of ingredients, the essence of pure chocolate is delivered without distraction, paired into a creamy union with fresh, heavy cream and possibly something else that will excite the palate and linger in the memory. Cream is the perfect conveyer of chocolate flavour, as it fills the mouth with its unctuous softness, spreading the subtleties and nuanced flavours of the chocolate across all of our taste buds.

Chocolate Truffles

1 cup heavy cream; 1 pound chocolate, coarsely chopped (bittersweet, semisweet, milk or white); 2 tbsp. unsalted butter; 1 tbsp. instant espresso granules (optional, but greatly enhances chocolate experience); 2 tbps grated orange zest (optional, but yum); 2-3 tbsp. Grand Marnier (optional, but why wouldn't you?); 1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder; 1/4 cup confectioners' sugar.

Line a rimmed baking sheet with wax paper or parchment. Place cream in a medium saucepan. Set over medium-low heat and bring cream almost to a boil. Remove from heat. Stir in chopped chocolate, butter, instant espresso powder, orange zest and liquour, if using. Stir until chocolate is melted and mixture is smooth. Scrape mixture into a medium metal bowl and place it in the freezer for about 20 minutes or until firm.

When you are ready to roll truffles, sift cocoa powder and confectioners' sugar onto a plate or small, shallow bowl. Use a teaspoon to scoop up a full teaspoon of truffle mixture. Roll the truffle quickly in your hands to make a ball 1" in diameter. Truffles will melt on your hands but work quickly and wipe hands frequently. Roll the truffle in cocoa mixture and place on a baking sheet. Continue forming and rolling truffles with the remaining mix. Refrigerate truffles for about 20 minutes until firm. Truffles can be stored in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 2 weeks, or frozen for up to 3 months. Makes 40-50 truffles.

This recipe comes from Lora Brody's must-have book Chocolate American Style.

I have now done my duty as a citizen, helping ensure that at least some of your chocolate intake be exquisite. Now, I will point you to some great books that will further enhance the chocolate moments in your life.

Chocolate desserts by Pierre Herme / by Herme, Pierre.

Chocolate sensations : over 200 easy-to-make recipes /

Bittersweet : recipes and tales from a life in chocolate / by Medrich, Alice.

Chocolate epiphany : exceptional cookies, cakes, and confections for everyone / by Payard, François.

Websites for Chocolate Lovers:

http://www.ghirardelli.com/bake/recipe.aspx?id=1074

http://www.scharffenberger.com/allrecipes.asp

Peek Into My Pantry Again - Sumac and Za'Atar

ldilembo — Sat, 22 Nov 2008 09:51:00 GMT

Sumac

There are many weird and wonderful vials and jars in my spice collection, garnered from my own travels and from travelling friends who know I love to cook and who bring me back little perfumey spice packets from various corners of the globe. It is also fun to go on food hunts here in Calgary, as those of you who read my blog know I am apt to do, and bring home unusual spices you haven't used before. Treat yourself to a trip to a Middle Eastern food store to explore some intriguing flavours that will add beautiful notes to your cooking.

Sumac is a burnished winey red spice with a pleasant citrusy zing. It is made from the coarsely ground dried berries of the sumac plant. Sumac is lively without being either bitter or hot and it works extremely well when married with lemon juice, olive oil, garlic and thyme in a marinade for chicken or fish. Sumac is also wonderful sprinkled on salads or sliced white onions, adding a very pretty ruddy colour and astringent note.

Bread With Za'Atar

I love making a herby paste with sumac and another sensual Middle Eastern blend called za'atar. Za'atar is composed of dried wild thyme and sesame seeds and can be found, along with sumac, at Somar Food Market in Calgary. Mix one part sumac to three parts za'atar and drizzle in enough olive oil to make a loose paste. Add a clove or two of crushed fresh garlic. Spread this dismal looking mush on pita bread and toast the bread briefly in a 350 degree oven until warmed and golden on its edges. Taste and swoon.

Za'atar can charm in many ways. Here is another one, a lusty dip from Joan Nathan's book The Foods of Israel Today. Labneh is a thick, creamy, dense yogurt sold in Middle Eastern grocery stores. It is an excellent canvas for adding in colour and flavours, the stark whiteness begging to be filled. And what better way to saturate with colour than with the potent, bleeding reds of sun-dried tomatoes?

Sun-Dried Tomatoes

Labneh With Za'Atar and Sun-Dried Tomatoes:

1 cup sun-dried tomatoes; 2 cups plain labneh; 3 tsp. za'atar, divided; 2 cloves fresh garlic, mashed; juice of 1 lemon; salt and pepper to taste; 1 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil.

Place the sun-dried tomatoes in a bowl and cover them with boiling water. Let tomatoes sit for about 20 minutes or until softened, then drain and chop. Place the labneh, 2 tsp. of the za'atar, the mashed garlic, lemon juice and salt and pepper in a small mixing bowl. Mix well. just before serving, fold in the sun-dried tomatoes, reserving a few pretty pieces for garnish. Drizzle with olive oil, the remaining sun-dried tomatoes and remaining 1 tsp. za'atar. Serve with crackers, raw veggies or wedges of pita bread.

Looking for more uses for sumac and za'atar? I had a feeling this would happen. Here are some books to help you out.

Artichoke to Za'Atar by Greg Malouf and Lucy Malouf

Cooking With Herbs and Spices by Linda Tubby and Manisha Gambhir Harkins

The Essential Mediterranean by Nancy Harmon Jenkins

Cookbooks I Really Use Again and Again and Again

ldilembo — Sat, 15 Nov 2008 08:13:00 GMT

I have a condition called Food On The Brain. I make grocery lists to help plan for meals I crave and will create. I go on food hunts all over the city searching out the choicest ingredients for my foodie projects. I devote time every day to cooking family meals. And, for rest and relaxation, I read cookbooks! I work in a library and have access to thousands of cookbooks. I try to wade my way through most of the cookbooks in the library collection, even if only to glance at the Table of Contents and peek at the pictures. But, when it comes to getting my hands dirty in the kitchen and actually using a cookbook, I find myself connecting with and relying on only a select few. Which few? Here is my list, along with the reasons each of these speaks to me.

The new Moosewood cookbook / by Katzen, Mollie, 1950- The new Moosewood is really the old Moosewood with a much needed improved index. This is the book I can thank for teaching me to make really delicious Hummous, Babaganouj and Guacamole while I was a poor student living in the McGill ghetto. I still use these excellent recipes today. With charming illustrations from the hippy days the book was first published, this is a classic must-have for both vegetarians and non. Great salads and soups too!

Baking illustrated : a best recipe classic / The editors from the reliable Cook's Illustrated magazine bring us this trustworthy publication with the most carefully tested recipes imaginable. Not as visually flashy or glossy as is currently the trend in cookbooks, but a staple in my kitchen because of the quality of the recipes. I think I have developed a chemical dependancy on the Caramel Sauce. You must experience the Chocolate Truffle Tart at least once in your life time. The Banana Bread is everything you want this homestyle classic to be: moist and dense, full of fresh banana flavour and liberally textured with little morsels of walnuts. Lots of user-friendly savoury recipes too.

Muffins A to Z / by Simmons, Marie. One summer I had a stint as a baker at Annie's Bakery and Cafe in Fish Creek Park and this is the book of recipes we used to make gigantic, glorious, fresh muffins every morning. The banana Knock-Out Muffins are possibly the most delicious muffins I have ever eaten. There is an excellent recipe for Pumpkin Praline Muffins that will also knock you out. Vagabond Muffins are perfect for those days you are on the go and need a portable and nutritious snack. If you love muffins, this is the Bible. From decadently rich to hearty and healthy, you will find plenty here to satisfy all your muffin cravings with.

The best international recipe : a best recipe classic / Another fabulous cookbook from the editors of Cook's Illustrated magazine, featuring the great classic foods of the world. Awesome Chicken Enchiladas, Beef Goulash,Tabbouleh Salad, Samosas, Risotto, etc. The list goes on and you will never tire of the variety in this book. The many tantalizing flavours of world foods will find a happy home in your kitchen when you start cooking with this book.

The complete meat cookbook : a juicy and authoritative guide to selecting, seasoning, and cooking today's beef, pork, lamb, and veal / by Aidells, Bruce. I gave you a veggie-centered book, so this is for the meat-lovers. A very easy to use reference type cookbook with great ideas for meaty meals, plus wonderful sauces, condiments and side dishes to please everyone. Try some of the succulent spice rubs and the other flavour building tips. If you are tired of the same old meat and potatoes meals, this book will open your eyes to the surprising variety meat-based menus can contain.

Canadian living's desserts / by Baird, Elizabeth, 1939- Every Canadian household should own this book, with its well-tested recipes and its crowd-pleasing desserts. Everything you could possibly want in a dessert book is included, from cakes and cookies to pies and tarts, puddings, crumbles, crisps and souffles. Life is definitely sweeter when you use these recipes. I am a big fan of the comforting Cranberry Apple Crisp, which I will make later today, and the blissful Grand Marnier Nanaimo Bars, both very Canadian and very good.

Everyday Greens : home cooking from Greens, the celebrated vegetarian restaurant / by Somerville, Annie. This book details delicious ways to use vegetables, with stunning yet simple recipes for salads, soups, sandwiches, savoury snacks, pizza, curries, stews, casseroles, pasta, beans, grains, etc.! The Corn and Tomatillo Salsa and Moroccan Beet Salad both pack in big flavour and beautiful colour. Who knew eating your vegetables could be so much fun? Used along with the meat book and the dessert book, you have all your bases covered!

Making Your Own Crackers - Not As Crazy As You May Think

ldilembo — Sat, 08 Nov 2008 08:53:00 GMT

Homemade Crackers (photo courtesy of 101cookbooks.com)

If you take a little flour and a little water and blend them together until they form a smooth, doughy mass, you are halfway there to making your own crackers! But, these would be bland crackers, so you do need to add some flavour. Easily done: some salt, some cracked pepper, a bit of grated cheese, some chopped fresh rosemary and a small dribble of good, fruity olive oil. Now you have the makings of really fabulous, crisp, savoury snacks. I predict that once you start making your own crackers you will not stop. In the time it takes you to find your shopping list and write "crackers", you will have these crunchy ones in the oven. Actually, the dough has to sit for 30 minutes, so I lie. But the sitting time doesn't count, so I tell the truth. These crackers are inspired by a recipe in Rose Levy Beranbaum's book The Bread Bible.

Rosemary Crackers

2+3/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour; 1/4 cup whole wheat flour; 1 tsp. salt; 1 cup water at room temperature; 1/4 cup olive oil; 1 tbsp. finely chopped fresh rosemary.

Combine flours and salt in mixer bowl. Make a well in the centre and pour in all but 1 tbsp. of the water, the oil and the rosemary. With a paddle attachment, mix on medium speed until the dough comes together and cleans the side of the bowl. If this doesn't happen, add extra water 1 tbsp. at a time until a ball of dough forms. If the dough is too sticky, add flour, 1 tbsp. at a time until the dough is properly formed. Oil the dough lightly, cover it and let it rest for 30 minutes at room temperature before rolling.

To make the crackers, preheat the oven to 450 F. Roll dough thinly on a floured surface. Brush the tops of the crackers with a little bit of water and sprinkle on a good pinch of kosher salt, which is coarse and mellow. Cut crackers any way you like and bake for 8-10 minutes. The crackers should have raised bubbles that are lightly browned. Cool and eat or keep in a covered container.

Coarse salt adds texture and taste to the tops of crackers

Once you find a cracker recipe you like, the creative possibilities are limitless. You can replace some of the all-purpose flour with whole wheat or rye flour. You can add an assortment of seeds to the dough for texture, colour and flavour. I love using fennel, flax and poppy seeds. You can chop up some fresh sage and incorporate it into the dough. You can cut the crackers into long, thin strips, or cute little stars. You get the idea.

Another winner in my house are these Crisp Seeded Mega-Crackers from The King Arthur Flour Baker's Companion. My family say these crackers are better than chips, with the same winning pairing of crispness and saltiness, but nutritionally positive and pretty, with the seeds speckling the dough in a random, rustic way. You can brush the rolled cracker dough with water and sprinkle on some extra salt, or not.

3 cups all-purposed unbleached flour; 1 tsp. salt; 1/2 tsp. kosher or coarse sea salt for the tops of the crackers (optional); 2/3 cup assorted small seeds of your choice (sesame, flax, poppy, fennel, anise are all great); 1 tsp. ground black pepper; 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil; 1 cup cool water.

Mix together dry ingredients, leaving out the optional kosher salt for the tops. Stir in olive oil then add water, and mix until dough starts to come together. Add single spoonfulls of water if mixture is too dry, or single spoonfuls of flour if mixture is too wet and gloppy. Once you have a smooth, sticky mass of dough, oil it lightly, cover it and let it rest for 30 minutes. Roll dough out thinly on a floured surface and brush the tops with a bit of water. Sprinkle on a bit of kosher or coarse salt if you like. Cut crackers into any shape you like. Bake crackers at 450 F for about 10 minutes or until browned and crisp. Cool and store in airtight containers.

Once the aromas of home baking fill your kitchen, the idea of making your own crackers will not seem crazy at all. To further explore the world of breads and savoury snacks, take a look at these books:

Savory Baking From the Mediterranean by Anissa Helou

Flatbreads and Flavors by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Daguid

Food of the Month - November - Pecans

ldilembo — Sat, 01 Nov 2008 06:01:00 GMT

Pecans

I am easily seduced by simple foods made well with good ingredients. This means that I lean more towards casual homestyle cooking as opposed to trendy, eye-catching architectural food structures. I love hearty peasant food and old-fashioned, traditional recipes passed down from grandmothers. So, this month I am inspired by a really straight-forward autumn-coloured dish, Sweet Potato Casserole with Pecan Topping. Perhaps this is the kind of dish many of you make often, especially when temperatures drop and the need for comfort rises. My recipe, adapted from one I found on www.cooking.com, has a velvety, soft texture, reminiscent of chocolate mousse, actually, invitingly smooth and just sweet enough to please without being downright dessert-like. Topped with a crisp, nutty crust, this dish elevates the humble sweet potato into what feels like a sweet indulgence but contains only a tablespoon of butter (for the whole dish). The silkiness of orange-scented sweet potatoes is gloriously enhanced with the warm notes of cinnamon and fresh ginger, plus a couple of eggs for smooth lightness.

Sweet Potato Casserole

2+1/2 pounds sweet potatoes, about 3 medium, peeled and cut into 2-inch chunks; 2 large eggs; 1 tablespoon honey; 1/2 cup orange juice; 2 teaspoons freshly grated orange zest; 1 tsp. cinnamon; 1 tbsp. freshly grated ginger; 1 tsp. pure vanilla extract; 1/2 tsp. salt, or to taste; pepper to taste. Topping: 3/4 cup whole-wheat flour; 1/2 cup lightly packed brown sugar; 7 tsp. frozen orange juice concentrate, thawed; 1 tbsp. melted butter; 1/2 tsp. cinnamon; 3/4 cup chopped pecans.

Place sweet potatoes in a large saucepan; cover with lightly salted water and bring to a boil. Cover and cook over medium heat until very tender, 15-20 minutes. Drain well and return to pan. Mash with a potato masher. Preheat oven to 350 F. Butter a medium sized casserole or 7"x11" baking pan . In a mixing bowl whisk eggs and honey until frothy. Stir in orange juice, orange zest, cinnamon, ginger, vanilla, salt and pepper. Mix well. Add the mashed sweet potato and whip until very well blended and light in texture. Spread this mixture into casserole or pan. For the topping, mix together flour, brown sugar, cinnamon, butter and orange juice concentrate. Stir in pecans and mix until evenly distributed. With your fingers crumble this topping as evenly as you can over the sweet potato mixture. Bake at 350 F for 35 - 40 minutes, until heated through and the top is lightly browned.

Makes enough for about 8 servings.

I tend not to talk alot about nutrition because my guiding principle is that real, natural food is inherently healthy, so why analyze it? I will say, though, that nuts are one of nature's best foods, containing unsaturated fats (that's the "good" kind) that help reduce risks of heart disease. Nuts are also an excellent source of antioxidants that fight free radicals in the blood and protect against cancer and the effects of aging.

Caramel

It is a stretch to call this a health food, but pecans with caramel are a memorable match that I gravitate to again and again. When I want some pecan pie decadance but don't feel like taking on the task of its creation, I make these sticky, gooey pecan squares which offer the same satisfying caramel-nut hit in a bar cookie format. This recipe comes from Williams-Sonoma's book Essentials of Baking:

Maple Pecan Squares

Crust: 1+1/4 cups all-purpose flour; 1/3 cup firmly packed brown sugar; 1/4 tsp. salt; 1/2 cup cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces. Filling: 6 tbps. unsalted butter; 1/3 cup pure maple syrup; 2/3 cup firmly packed brown sugar; 1/3 cup heavy cream (35%); 2 cups coarsely chopped pecans.

Preheat oven to 350 F. Butter a 9" square baking pan. In the bowl of a food processor, combine flour, brown sugar and salt and pulse to blend. Add butter and pulse until mixture forms large coarse crumbs the size of peas. Add a few drops of cold water and pulse just until the mixture clumps together. It should hold its shape when you pinch it with your fingers. Press this mixture firmly and evenly into bottom of pan. Bake until edges are lightly browned and the top feels firm, 12-17 minutes. For the filling, in a saucepan over medium heat, combine butter, maple syrup, brown sugar and cream and stir together until better melts and sugar dissolves. Bring to a boil and boil for 3 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in the pecans. Mix well. Pour hot filling over the partially baked crust, spreading it evenly. Bake 22-25 minutes. The filling will bubble vigourously, subside and then form smaller bubbles toward the end of baking. Cool completely before cutting into little squares.

Go nuts for these books:

Nuts : more than 75 delicious & healthy recipes / by Laskin, Avner.

Nuts : recipes from around the world that feature nature's perfect ingredient / by Griffith, Linda.