Peek Into My Pantry - Turkish Pepper

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Peek Into My Pantry - Turkish Pepper

In the photo above I am in the Spice Market in Istanbul, Turkey surrounded by aromatic heaps of bright red Turkish pepper. I was swept here by what felt like a human tidal wave on the busy streets into this ancient and bustling emporium on the banks of the Bosphorous Sea. On the outside of the market are stalls of the most gorgeous produce known to man, walnuts so plump and perfect that the vendor is filling a bag for me before we even speak. The interior of the Spice Market is devoted to dried goods, glistening jewel-toned blocks of Turkish delight studded with pistachios and pomegranate seeds. Teas of every sort are displayed alongside dried apricots, nuts and spices, shaped into peaked domes almost taller than I am. The various vendors are quick to sprinkle little tastings of Turkish pepper into the palm of my hand, which I lick, savouring the duality of heat and sweetness in the crumbly, slightly sticky flakes. I wish I could take home enough to last me for the rest of my life.

At home here in Calgary, Turkish pepper is sometimes referred to as Aleppo pepper. Seek it out in Middle Eastern food stores such as Somar Food Market (17 - 9250 MacLeod Trail SE - 403-252-2700) and use it as I do to add depth, colour and flavour to salad dressings, marinades and sauces. A good place to start using Turkish pepper is a hearty, multi-flavoured Bulgur Salad, scented with the tart acidity of pomegranate molasses (Somar carries it!), the fruity bite of Turkish pepper, the crunch of toasted walnuts and the vibrant grassiness of handfuls of freshly chopped parsley. Pomegranate molasses is the syrupy concentrate of pomegranate juice that is both tart and sweet, oozing with fruit aromas. Prepare to find yourself completely intoxicated by it and the other sensual notes in this salad:

Bulgar Salad

1 cup coarse-ground bulgar (fine bulgar turns to mush); 1+1/2 cups boiling water; 1/2 tsp. salt; 1/8 cup extra virgin olive oil; 2+1/2 tbsp. pomegranate molasses; juice of 1/2 lemon; 2 tbsp. tomato paste; 1 tsp. ground cumin; 1 tsp. ground coriander seeds; 1/2 tsp ground allspice; 1/2 tsp. Turkish pepper (also called Aleppo pepper); freshly ground black pepper to taste; 1 cup walnut pieces, toasted, cooled and coarsely chopped; 1/4 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted; 1 cup finely chopped fresh parsley.

Soak bulgar in water with the salt, covered, until tender, about 25 minutes. All the water should be absorbed by the bulgar. If it is not, drain well. Whisk olive oil with pomegranate molasses, tomato paste, lemon juice and spices. Pour half of this dressing over the bulgar. Let it absorb for 10 minutes. Add nuts and parsley and the remaining dressing. Mix well. Taste for salt and pepper and add more if needed. Best left to sit in the fridge for a couple of hours, for the flavours to develop.

The Bulgar Salad is a Claudia Roden recipe from the New York Times Country Weekend Cookbook edited by Linda Amster. The recipe makes enough salad for 4 people, can easily be doubled and pairs very well with grilled chicken and Greek salad.

Muhammara (left) and Babaganouj (right)

If you are looking for another canvas to showcase both Turkish pepper and pomegranate molasses, try Muhammara, a tangy roasted red pepper and walnut dip well known in the Middle East. This recipe is from a tattered index card in my collection, from an unknown source, and is brightly flavoured and very well balanced:

Muhammara

4 fresh red peppers, roasted, skinned, deseeded and chopped; 1/2 clove of fresh garlic, crushed; salt to taste; 1+1/2 cups walnut pieces, toasted and cooled; 1/2 cup bread crumbs (best from stale pita bread); 1 tsp. Turkish pepper (also called Aleppo pepper); 2 tbsp. pomegranate molasses; 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice.

Combine all ingredients in a food processor and pulse until roughly textured, not perfectly smooth. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve with crackers or celery sticks or as an accompaniment to broiled fish or meat.

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